So You Want to Be a Plus-Size Fashion Designer

by Yuliya Zeltser of Igigi for Elegant Plus Magazine

Many of you are very interested in the fashion design field; but don’t  know how to get started. Recently, the managing editor of Elegant Plus, Thea Politis,  approached me and asked me to share my experiences, as well as some insider tips for beginners. I thought this was a great idea, since approximately five years ago I was in the similar position of a novice, starting my own plus-size designer fashion company. Today, Igigi is a very successful company, with thousands of curvy fashionistas wearing our exclusive designs worldwide.

Plus-size clothing is the fastest growing sector of the women’s apparel industry in the United States today, so now is a great time to get into the business.  But it is also an ultra-competitive industry, with many failures due to lack of proper preparation, lack of understanding of the full-figured market, and poor business skills.

What Does a Plus-Size Fashion Designer Do?

The main job of a plus-size fashion designer is to conceptualize and create clothing designs that will fit and flatter women’s full-figured bodies. Additionally, there are other duties that can be performed by a designer such as planning production, merchandising of the clothing collection, as well as helping to market your own creations.

To be successful in this field there are certain necessary basic skills. The first one is, of course, the skill of design. This means comprehension of basic fashion design techniques and principles, knowledge of apparel construction and patternmaking, understanding mass production, as well as the ability to deliver flat technical design drawings with specifications for production. A flexible, creative problem solving approach to design and the ability to come up with multiple possible solutions is also a must.

Originality is a necessary talent to have, as well. For example, a fashion designer must be able to create unique variations of popular trends, and adapt them to look flattering on a voluptuous figure. Other important skills are the ability to successfully communicate with the design team, and coordinate the design process. I also believe that an in depth knowledge of various women’s shapes and different figure specifics are also necessary to create flattering garments. Moreover, artistic talent is  crucial in fashion design, as well as a strong sense of form, aesthetics, color balance and proportion, and an eye for detail.

Many of these skills have to be a natural part of the individual - the raw talent, if you will. However, I strongly believe that formal training and education play a key role in the success of a designer.

Education and Preparation

There are several ways to obtain a fashion design education. Many aspiring designers begin at top post secondary design schools like the Parsons School of Design in New York, or Academy of Art in San Francisco. If you’re serious about reaching the top in this field, it is a good idea to make an effort to attend such a school.

However, in my opinion, very effective fashion design training is also obtainable in a two-year vocational school. Usually students will receive an extensive preparation and design skills, as well as some exposure to the garment industry. Many of these programs are also available in community colleges.

After graduating, many people acquire as much experience in the real working environment as they can get. Many find internship positions with already established fashion designers or apparel manufacturing companies. Developing a comprehensive portfolio while in school will help get these internship opportunities.

Many graduates often begin as Design Room Assistants, an entry-level position that allows them to develop their skills and even possibly grow within the company. Others begin as Design Assistants, a much more responsible position that offers right-hand help to a lead Designer. Check the Elegant Plus Fashion Jobs board and other fashion industry job boards for opportunities in the plus-size designer field.

It certainly takes time, enormous amounts of patience, and dedication to succeed in this industry. However if you have the passion for design, tenacity, perseverance and willingness to constantly grow and evolve as both a professional and an individual, this could be a profession for you.

I think that every aspiring plus fashion designer should honestly ask her/himself a question: is she/he willing to work for several years for free, or minimal compensation?

If your answer is “yes”, than this is a job made for you. The good news is that a Plus-size industry is the fastest growing segment in the apparel industry, and the quantity of jobs related to fashion design for plus-sizes will grow tremendously in the next few years.

Financial Opportunities in Plus-Size Design

Now let’s talk about financial opportunities in the field.

According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics an average annual income for fashion designers in 2003 was $64,030 a year. Many earn a lot less. However, many top designers can earn up to $100,000 within the straight size industry. In my opinion, as the plus-size segment gets larger and more popular, so will the opportunity to become a top designer, receiving larger compensation.

Many designers, including myself, choose to work independently and start their own fashion labels. However, this choice also comes with a heavy price. A need to be ready to work 14 -18 hour days, with no compensation for as long as 3 years could be in-store for the young entrepreneurs…..as it was for me. However, success of the brand is one of the most rewarding pay offs.

My suggestion for the young fashion design entrepreneurs who want to start and run their own label is to  enroll in  some kind of the business training, in addition to your more creative coursework. This will help you to create a business plan, marketing plan and expose you to various resources for financing. Many of these educational programs are also available to women and minority groups for a nominal cost. It is wise to research these programs in the area where you live.

It is always better to start a fashion design business in a location not too far from a garment district. A major benefit is that you will have direct access to sewing contractors, fabric and trim suppliers. Some popular places that I am familiar with are, of course, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Atlanta and Dallas. Many smaller cities also have garment manufacturing friendly areas. It is a good idea to do your homework and research this in your city or town. Many states (such as California) require that designers opening a business pass a special test and pay a hefty registration fee. Contact your local authorities to find out if this applies in your area.

Lastly, I would like to add that I am convinced that if you truly believe that you can accomplish something, and don’t let anything get in your way, all the challenges that you will experience will turn into opportunities…. what along the way some termed as ”impossible” will become a reality.

About the Author

Yuliya Zeltser is the founding and lead designer of the plus-size clothing company Igigi.  She believes that words like “ample,” “opulent,” “curvaceous,” and “voluptuous” should be mainstays in the fashion dictionary. It is important to accentuate and celebrate the beauty and sensuality of the female figure rather than cover it up with piles of fabric. She is as passionate about creating unique, fashion-forward, stylish and great fitting clothes, as she is about changing the way our society defines feminine beauty.  Among other venues, her designs have been worn by contestants in the Miss Plus America pageant and on the red carpet by Hairspray star Nikki Blonsky.

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More Resources

Elegant Plus Fashion Job Board - find a job in the industry

Elegant Plus Designer Fashion Listings - who’s already in the field

Books on Plus-Size Style - understanding body shapes, silhouette, fit and proportion

Books on Fashion Design - learning the skills of fashion design

Books on Plus-Size Sewing and Knitting - resources, tips and tricks for great design

Books on Fashion Marketing - great design isn’t enough. How to reach your public

Popularity: 16% [?]

Money Talk for Women

How to Write a Business Plan

by Monica Rasso for Elegant Plus Magazine

Your dream might be to start your own fashion design company or open your own clothing store, but you don’t know where to begin!  The first thing you need to do is sit down over a period of weeks, even months, and do a bit of careful planning.  Chances are you will need to find investors in your dream, but even if you have the capital to start a company with your own resources, it’s best to have a solid business plan.

A business plan is vital to the success of your business. It is your roadmap to success! You wouldn’t start a long road trip across the country without a map! Why would you start your business, your dream, your hope without a plan? Besides being a directional and motivational tool, a business plan is important for obtaining financing from banks, venture capitalists and other start up funds. 

So where do you start? In writing a business plan, there are four main questions to consider: what, how, where and why. 

WHAT

1. What is my product or service? To answer this question, describe in detail exactly what you will be offering your customer. Describe the product or service in as much detail as you can. How is your idea unique? What value can you provide your customer? Why is this product or service needed?

1. What compensation do I offer any employees I may have? When do I plan to hire employees? Having a plan for when and if you will need to bring in employees can help your in organizing your business. You may site examples of when you would like to begin hiring.

1. What sources of help are available to me? It is important to know that help is available in planning your business. The local/state government, local college business advisors, Small Business Administration, and women business owners associations are all examples of service administrations available to help you financially and emotionally.

HOW

1. How do I pick supply and service vendors? What help can these companies provide for your business? For example, if you are starting a clothing store, where will you get your merchandise? How much time does a vendor need in order to get their product/service to you? You may begin to price the supplies necessary for creation of your product or service so that you can begin a budget. 

1. How do I fill customer’s orders or requests?  Will you provide a basic service or can customers do special requests? Who can you rely on to meet these special requests? 

1. How will I advertise my services?  Will you use local or national advertising? How much will all of this cost? What is the most effective use of advertising for your product? How do companies similar to yours advertise? 

WHERE

1. Where will I buy or lease an office/store? How big of a space do you need? What technology do you need? How will you transport, package, and/or deliver your product or service? 

1. Where will I get start-up funding? Bank, personal capital/savings, borrow from family/friends, or venture capital? You may want to look into possibilities of development capital from the Small Business Administration or women-owned business loans/programs or grants. 

1. Where do I want my business to be in five ten, fifteen, twenty years? Will you have more than one location? How will your business grow to be more profitable? Who can help you make this happen? 

WHY

1. Why should I choose a sole proprietorship, partnership, limited liability company, or corporation? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each? This question will require the assistance of a tax advisor. 

1. Why should I go into business anyways? What is driving you to open this business? 

Now that you have a business plan, what are you going to do with it? This plan should be used as your roadmap to start your business but also as a tool to look back on as your business grows and changes. Keep in mind that your success relies on your passion, commitment, and determination to reach your goals. Set goals and follow through! Put your dream on paper and make it happen! 

More Resources

Popularity: 18% [?]

Plus-Size Fertility

by Brette Sember for Elegant Plus Magazine

The decision to become a parent is an exciting one. You and your wonderful man are going to create new life together through the power of your love. It’s a heady feeling and one that definitely can bring you closer together. But if you’re a plus-size woman, you may worry about what kind of impact your weight will have on getting pregnant.

Schedule a Pre-Conception Physical

Make an appointment to see your gynecologist before you toss that birth control out the window. It is now recommended that all women have a pre-conception check up to discuss medications, lifestyle changes, and any possible stumbling blocks to conception that they might face. As a plus-sized woman, one of things your physician will likely discuss with you is weight. Being overweight can cause irregularities with your cycle and suppress ovulation. It’s likely that you’ll be encouraged to get close to your ideal weight by your doctor (according to body mass index charts), but losing even 10 pounds can have a significant positive impact on fertility for many women. Diet drugs are an absolute no-no though when trying to conceive.

Losing weight is a personal choice (and for many women, a difficult path), so be sure to weigh your own feelings into the decision. It’s also important to note that too much weight loss too quickly can make it difficult to conceive.

Discuss Major Causes of Fertility Problems

When you see your physician, it is a good idea to ask about two common medical issues that impact the ability to conceive for many plus-size women. If you have never had your thyroid tested, ask for a complete thyroid profile (the traditional TSH test is NOT enough because an underactive thyroid sometimes is only detected with thyroid antibody levels). An underactive or overactive thyroid can impair fertility and also cause problems during pregnancy. Overweight women are most likely to experience an underactive thyroid since the failure of thyroid to function properly can lead to weight gain. Hashimoto’s thyroiditis, the most common form of underactive thyroid, is five times more prevalent in women than in men. 

You should also discuss Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome (PCOS) with your physician. Between five and ten percent of all women of childbearing age have PCOS, which is a complicated metabolism and hormone imbalance. Symptoms include infrequent or irregular cycles, acne, facial hair, high cholesterol, thinning hair, skin tags, and sleep apnea. PCOS is a leading cause of infertility in overweight women (and there is a higher incidence of it in overweight women), because the imbalance of male and female hormones makes it difficult to get pregnant.

Some women find they have both of these problems, creating a double whammy. These disorders are things that many physicians are not as aware of as they should be, so asking to be tested for both will offer you peace of mind about your own fertility.

Make a Trip to the Drugstore

Your physician will prescribe prenatal vitamins for you, an important way to make sure you will have a healthy pregnancy. While prenatal vitamins are important, there is some research to suggest that the typical prenatal vitamin does not contain enough folic acid to provide protection in overweight women against neural tube defects in the baby. Some physicians believe plus-size women should take additional folic acid supplements (since it is a harmless vitamin) along with their prenatal vitamins in order to obtain full protection. Ask your physician about a higher dose of folic acid.

Track Your Cycle

While trying to get pregnant can be a romantic and exciting proposition, there is a science to it. Learning how to maximize your cycles can mean getting pregnant more quickly. Start tracking your basal body temperature each morning before you get up. Talk to your physician about how to read this chart (essentially you’re looking for a temperature drop, then an increase of at least .4 degrees, which indicates ovulation). Over the counter ovulation predictor kits are also a valuable tool. The key is to try to have sex at least every other day during the five days before you ovulate and the two days after. For more information, see www.FertilityPlus.org.

Stay Positive

Feeling good about your body and keeping a positive outlook will not only ease stress (which has been shown to have a negative effect on fertility), but will help you stay happy as you begin trying to get pregnant. Many women hope they will get pregnant right away, but in actuality there is only a 25% chance of getting pregnant each month, so you may have a long road ahead of you. Make time for your relationship and for yourself and try not to let all your hopes and happiness ride on that monthly pregnancy test.

Staying positive about your body is key, because many full-figured women often have low self-esteem. This is the time in your life when you should appreciate the amazing things your body can do, and learn to love it for what it is.

When to Seek Help

According to the CDC, 55% of couples get pregnant within three months, 72% within six months and 85% within one year. The standard advice is to try for a year before seeking assistance, but overweight women should seek assistance sooner, since weight can impair ovulation. If you do not ovulate (based on your basal body temperature chart or ovulation predictor kits), you should call your physician immediately. If you are over age 35 you also should not wait a year, since your window of opportunity is getting smaller.

Recommended Books

About the Author

Brette Sember is a plus-size mom of two and co-author of Your Plus-Size Pregnancy: The Ultimate Guide for the Full-Figured Expectant Mom (Barricade Books, 2005). Her web site, www.YourPlusSizePregnancy.com, contains a section on plus-size fertility.

Popularity: 31% [?]