ELEGANT PLUS CONTENT TAGS:career, fashion careers, model agents, modeling agencies, plus models, Plus Size Plus Size Fashion

So You Want to Be….. A Plus Model Agent

by Monica Rasso, regular contributor to Elegant Plus Magazine

 For seven years I worked as a plus model in Florida. Then I had the opportunity to move to the modeling mecca of New York City. Within two weeks of signing with my agency, the agent in charge of the plus-size division decided to leave the company and start her own agency. I began to ask questions to the owner of my agency about how one becomes an agent. We ended up in a discussion about the position, requirements, and everything else that one would do in a typical job interview. She hired me on a trial basis until she saw the results of my dedication, business skills, and industry knowledge. 

How to Get Started

Since the plus division was new at my agency, I really got the chance to build it from the beginning. In the simplest terms, a modeling agent is someone who books jobs for models. But there is much that goes on before booking a job! Some agents, in conjunction with the agency owner, also get to select the models for their division. I held open calls at my agency and did all the advertising to find models. Models are the “product” of the agency that we sell to our customers. The “customers” include companies that need our models for advertising, fitting, or marketing purposes. 

A great agent must have terrific business and management abilities along with strong morals. I had to earn the trust of my models by being consistent, honest, and hard working. To earn the trust of the companies (our customers) I had to be business savvy to make deals and also provide them with reliable, well-trained models. Both the models and the companies have to be convinced that you know the industry and how to do your job. So how do you learn to be a modeling agent?

As a new agent, I had to find models and find jobs for them. I searched modeling websites (such as the Elegant Plus Models and the Elegant Plus Job Board), advertised open calls in local publications and online, and took walk-in appointments. When I signed a model, they had to commit to getting the minimum amount of photos that I needed to advertise for them. This usually involves having a clear headshot, full body, and some other photo such as something outdoors or in a location like an office….just something unique! The only expenses a beginning model should have to pay for is good photos and composite cards, which can run as high as a couple of thousand dollars depending on the photographer chosen. An agency will typically refer photographers to use and some agencies even have their own in-house photographers. A model usually has to pay for these services upfront herself, although some agencies will allow the model to sign a contract and have the cost of the photos and composite cards deducted from their first paycheck. Without good photos, the model may not be selected for a job. Without a composite card, the agency has no way to show the model to their customers! 

So, what did I look for in a model?

In selecting models, I mainly did not want two that had similar looks represented by my agency. When judging looks, I wanted a variety of ethnic backgrounds and, of course, very beautiful women with great skin, hair, and smiles! I needed a variety of sizes from 12-26. The most common size that customers wanted was a 14-16. Now the popular size for plus jobs is more often size 16-18. Height is also important. I selected taller models in the range of 5’8” to 6’. There are exceptions to this height requirement for fit models, especially if a company needs a size 22 petite to fit! The agency will develop models that the customers need. The most demand is for women with evenly balanced proportions, or in other words, the classic hour glass shape. But, there are a variety of shapes and sizes of women that a modeling agency may need to have available, depending upon the demands of their clientele. 

If you are an aspiring plus model reading this, remember, agencies are a business.  If they reject you IT DOES NOT MEAN YOU ARE NOT A BEAUTIFUL WOMAN.  It simply means the agent does not believe they will be able to find work matching your particular look, or that the agency already represents someone with a similar look.  Great self-esteem that can take hearing “no” more often than “yes” is a requirement for success in this industry.

Networking and Locating Work for Models

After I had a book of just six models, I began to work on my relationship with customers. I called companies in the area that use plus models for their advertising and fitting needs. I told them about my company, our goals, morals, and opened a discussion on their needs and how we could satisfy them. I used any source that I could find in order to find jobs for the models. These sources included newspapers, online websites, and word of mouth recommendations. 

Once I had models and a few customers interested, I had to make sure our contracts were in order and that the models would be protected when going to a job. I would never want to place a model in a situation where she could be in danger! We checked the background of our customers and made sure contracts were properly signed so that we would get paid. So how much do we get paid?

Payscale and Hours

Modeling agents are typically paid a percentage of the fee charged to customers. So, if I am not booking jobs for my models, I am not getting paid. There are laws that regulate how much of a models payment the agency can keep. My agency took 20% and I received 15% of that. I received a higher amount than some agents because I worked for free until I had my book of models and clients established. There are other ways to make money in the agency besides just commissions. I was paid a portion of the in-house photo shoots that I supervised and served as a “mini stylist” to get the shots that I know will be marketable to our customers. 

The hours that an agent works are varied. I was able to work during business hours usually from 10am to 6pm, but I always made my own schedule. Again, if I’m not booking jobs, I’m not getting paid, so it was in my best interest to be at the office searching for models and booking jobs! Sometimes I would come in on a Saturday or Sunday to host an open call. And occasionally I would show up at a photo shoot to ensure that the photographer knows how to shoot plus-size women to their best advantage. But I could write a whole article just on shooting plus-size models! 

In Conclusion

Working as a modeling agent can be a stressful job, but overall it is very satisfying if done well. In an industry where morals are sometimes compromised, you have to commit to yourself to never cheat a customer, model, or your agency. The money is there to be made depending on how smart you work. You don’t have to work hard, you have to work “smart” by concentrating on the activities that will get you paid. Those activities involve keeping your models, customers, and boss happy. An agency is only as good as the reputation of its owner, agents, and models. 

If you are willing to work hard, sometimes for free until your book of models and customers is built, go talk to a local modeling agency. You can call the owner or manager and set up an appointment for an interview. If they see that you have the drive, determination, some industry and business sense, you might just land a rewarding job as a modeling agent! In any job, remember to commit to being the person that you want to be and never forget who that person is! The modeling industry is competitive, and getting the jobs for your models will be competitive too. If at the end of the day you can say that you did your best, then you’ve done enough. Good luck!

© 2006 Monica Rasso

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Guest Author, Bette Tilch on set
creating wind for Plus Model, Mica

 

So You Want to Be a Plus Fashion Stylist

by Bette Tilch, Guest Contributor to Elegant Plus Magazine

As a wardrobe and fashion stylist, I’m always being asked about what I do and how I got into this business.  To most people,  this seems like the perfect dream job.  You know … great clothes, famous people and the fun and excitement of being on the inside of a fashion photo shoot.

 There are many and varied types of “styling”, such as set styling, prop styling, food styling and, of course, wardrobe and fashion styling. Any time someone needs something to be photographed, taped or filmed,  chances are that there is a stylist involved.  Specifically, a fashion stylist is responsible for choosing and providing the wardrobe for a fashion shoot, an ad shoot or even accessories to supplement inventory for a catalogue shoot.  Fashion stylists also work with celebrities, on videos, TV commercials and on films (they are usually called costumers or wardrobe assistants on films).  They sometimes use their own vision to determine the look, but more often than not, they work as part of the creative team to decide the “look” of the particular situation. If it is a commercial, an ad or a catalogue shoot, the client or his representative has creative control and the stylist must provide wardrobe to their precise specifications.  A stylist is expected to work on set to ensure that the wardrobe looks it’s best at all times. S/he should have the equipment to steam/press, make repairs and sew, clamp, tape and pin the garments to ensure a perfect and flattering fit.  The stylist will also use his/her own resources and contacts to obtain wardrobe, often borrowed from designers and boutiques or rented from costume houses.

It is an exciting and interesting job, but it’s also a lot of really hard work. Fashion styling is a highly competitive business and the reality is there is no guarantee that you can make any money doing it. The first realistic hurdle is that to be successful you really must live in New York City or Los Angeles … it’s where the work is.  Unless, of course, you are one of the fortunate few hired by a catalog company, television show or large retailer with a high volume of photo shoots. There are a handful of salaried styling jobs within large companies.  Usually located at the main corporate headquarters, these positions aren’t necessarily tied to New York or L.A. and can be anywhere in the country. Because catalogers and department stores have such a high volume of catalogs and advertising circulars to  produce these offices can have several stylists on staff who are kept very busy week in and week out. Many of the same talents and skills apply, but, unlike freelance fashion stylists, networking, portfolios and client acquisition are not central to the corporate stylist’s success. The trick is to find the position and get hired in the first place.

Most people don’t realize that I work freelance.  This is the more usual situation for a stylist. Mine is not a salaried “job”.  I am in competition with other stylists for every individual paid project (called a gig) and it’s totally up to me to find my own clients, build my own relationships, wow them with my portfolio, and negotiate my fees.  I am not salaried and I don’t get medical benefits. Clients don’t even hold out my income taxes when I get paid, so I have to handle all of that financial stuff on my own.  I have to be a skilled entrepreneur/ business owner, a team player and a sales/marketing expert as well as a creative person …. all rolled into one. 

 Most stylists, like me, got their start by knowing or working for someone in the fashion business. Very few stylists have been formally trained in fashion school or through any certification programs. A friend, who is a fashion photographer, asked me to help out with wardrobe and provided me with some coaching.  I loved it and discovered that I have the “eye”.   I had finally … after a long career in business … stumbled on my calling!  But, as mentioned above, those business skills have also come in handy but in a new, creative way.

What I did next took time and money …  but then what start up business doesn’t?  I spent my time and money learning my craft and building my portfolio by working on numerous “test” photo shoots which means NO PAY. A savvy new stylist pays attention to the quality of the models and photographer in these collaborative test shoots to get the best images possible for her portfolio; but beginners need to be realistic about the quality of their own work and usually must start testing with newer fashion photographers and non professional models.  I learned that the more I tested,the better pictures I got and was able to attract increasingly better photographers who would work with me.  I did a lot of networking/making contacts, finding sources for wardrobe, marketing my services, and building a good reputation.  A new stylist can’t expect to work for pay for at least the first year or two. Once you are established each paying gig must be negotiated separately with the client, and can range from a few hundred dollars for a small, single day shoot with a smaller client to thousands of dollars for large multi-day, corporate or celebrity shoots. How much you can get paid depends on your negotiating skills, the client, the job and the quality of your portfolio.

Photographer’s storyboard laying out the shots along with
magazine images to show the model and crew
the look they are going for.

Over time, I’ve learned how to consult with photographers, clients and art directors to determine the “look” of the shoot, how to go out and find the right garments and accessories, do fittings on the models and make the final choices.  I’ve learned to clamp, pin and tape garments (on the side away from the camera) to make everything fit like a glove and to keep an eye on it all during the shoot to make sure there are no gaps wrinkles, lumps or pulls.  I can now steam a garment in about 30 seconds, make quick temporary adjustments with the flick of a wrist, use any accessory multiple ways, and make quick decisions about what looks right and what doesn’t.  When necessary, I can even bolster the confidence of a nervous model while I help her get dressed.  Most importantly of all, I’ve started to build a network of contacts and repeat clients so I can get paid work.

A surprise benefit … I’ve lost weight and am down 3 dress sizes without dieting from all the extra physical activity!  It’s all the lifting and carrying of the wardrobe, shoes, accessories, racks and equipment.  I must stand on set or location for hours at a time.  Sometimes we hike into the location  … up in the hills, across the beach or into the woods. Yes …it is that physical! 

After all the long hours and hard work, the pay off for me is seeing the results … the actual finished pictures.  I love to start with a concept and bring it to fruition.  It is usually very collaborative and if everyone on the team is good at what they do and are working as hard as I do, the results can be amazing!   Seeing my name in print for the first time in a magazine editorial made me realize that I had become a professional fashion stylist!

Today, a large portion of my work involves plus-size fashion. It seems that I have a reputation for knowing how to flatter the plus figure. I’ve found that, unlike the slim bodies that typical straight sized models have,  plus models’ bodies come in different shapes … not just different sizes.  So I’ve learned how to deal with differences in each model.  Sometimes it’s things like  large thighs but a small waist and chest, or too much around the tummy and chest but slim legs.  And I also need to adjust for proportion too … perhaps a girl’s legs are short and  her torso is long and she’s needs to look longer legged. I know how to balance the proportions of the body, play up the assets and disguise the problems. I can do this with the wardrobe’s cut, color and fabric … they all can have an impact.

I’ve had dozens of plus models hire me to help them put together looks for their own portfolio shoots and have been hired for personal wardrobe consultations as well.   I have worked for clients who sell great plus fashions such as Kiyonna, B & Lu, Alight and Dulce, to name a few.  Although I work in the world of regular size fashion too, my favorite shoots are with plus models … they are so beautiful and represent the average to large sized woman so well.  I am proud to be at the leading edge of the plus fashion industry.

© 2006 Bette Tilch

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About the Author

  After years in real estate and banking, Bette Tilch has been working  as a freelance fashion stylist since 2001.  She works primarily in the print and web (advertising, catalogs, magazine editorials) media but also offers personal styling services for working and aspiring plus models.

One of her specialties is working with designers and retailers who sell plus lines. She has worked as a stylist for plus apparel companies like Kiyonna, b & lu, and has participated in a holiday plus fashion editorial for Elegant Plus.  

She lives in Los Angeles with her husband, Chuck, and her Siamese and Balinese cats. When not working, she loves to travel.  She can be contacted through her portfolio website.

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So You Want to Be a Plus-Size Fashion Designer

by Yuliya Zeltser of Igigi for Elegant Plus Magazine

Many of you are very interested in the fashion design field; but don’t  know how to get started. Recently, the managing editor of Elegant Plus, Thea Politis,  approached me and asked me to share my experiences, as well as some insider tips for beginners. I thought this was a great idea, since approximately five years ago I was in the similar position of a novice, starting my own plus-size designer fashion company. Today, Igigi is a very successful company, with thousands of curvy fashionistas wearing our exclusive designs worldwide.

Plus-size clothing is the fastest growing sector of the women’s apparel industry in the United States today, so now is a great time to get into the business.  But it is also an ultra-competitive industry, with many failures due to lack of proper preparation, lack of understanding of the full-figured market, and poor business skills.

What Does a Plus-Size Fashion Designer Do?

The main job of a plus-size fashion designer is to conceptualize and create clothing designs that will fit and flatter women’s full-figured bodies. Additionally, there are other duties that can be performed by a designer such as planning production, merchandising of the clothing collection, as well as helping to market your own creations.

To be successful in this field there are certain necessary basic skills. The first one is, of course, the skill of design. This means comprehension of basic fashion design techniques and principles, knowledge of apparel construction and patternmaking, understanding mass production, as well as the ability to deliver flat technical design drawings with specifications for production. A flexible, creative problem solving approach to design and the ability to come up with multiple possible solutions is also a must.

Originality is a necessary talent to have, as well. For example, a fashion designer must be able to create unique variations of popular trends, and adapt them to look flattering on a voluptuous figure. Other important skills are the ability to successfully communicate with the design team, and coordinate the design process. I also believe that an in depth knowledge of various women’s shapes and different figure specifics are also necessary to create flattering garments. Moreover, artistic talent is  crucial in fashion design, as well as a strong sense of form, aesthetics, color balance and proportion, and an eye for detail.

Many of these skills have to be a natural part of the individual - the raw talent, if you will. However, I strongly believe that formal training and education play a key role in the success of a designer.

Education and Preparation

There are several ways to obtain a fashion design education. Many aspiring designers begin at top post secondary design schools like the Parsons School of Design in New York, or Academy of Art in San Francisco. If you’re serious about reaching the top in this field, it is a good idea to make an effort to attend such a school.

However, in my opinion, very effective fashion design training is also obtainable in a two-year vocational school. Usually students will receive an extensive preparation and design skills, as well as some exposure to the garment industry. Many of these programs are also available in community colleges.

After graduating, many people acquire as much experience in the real working environment as they can get. Many find internship positions with already established fashion designers or apparel manufacturing companies. Developing a comprehensive portfolio while in school will help get these internship opportunities.

Many graduates often begin as Design Room Assistants, an entry-level position that allows them to develop their skills and even possibly grow within the company. Others begin as Design Assistants, a much more responsible position that offers right-hand help to a lead Designer. Check the Elegant Plus Fashion Jobs board and other fashion industry job boards for opportunities in the plus-size designer field.

It certainly takes time, enormous amounts of patience, and dedication to succeed in this industry. However if you have the passion for design, tenacity, perseverance and willingness to constantly grow and evolve as both a professional and an individual, this could be a profession for you.

I think that every aspiring plus fashion designer should honestly ask her/himself a question: is she/he willing to work for several years for free, or minimal compensation?

If your answer is “yes”, than this is a job made for you. The good news is that a Plus-size industry is the fastest growing segment in the apparel industry, and the quantity of jobs related to fashion design for plus-sizes will grow tremendously in the next few years.

Financial Opportunities in Plus-Size Design

Now let’s talk about financial opportunities in the field.

According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics an average annual income for fashion designers in 2003 was $64,030 a year. Many earn a lot less. However, many top designers can earn up to $100,000 within the straight size industry. In my opinion, as the plus-size segment gets larger and more popular, so will the opportunity to become a top designer, receiving larger compensation.

Many designers, including myself, choose to work independently and start their own fashion labels. However, this choice also comes with a heavy price. A need to be ready to work 14 -18 hour days, with no compensation for as long as 3 years could be in-store for the young entrepreneurs…..as it was for me. However, success of the brand is one of the most rewarding pay offs.

My suggestion for the young fashion design entrepreneurs who want to start and run their own label is to  enroll in  some kind of the business training, in addition to your more creative coursework. This will help you to create a business plan, marketing plan and expose you to various resources for financing. Many of these educational programs are also available to women and minority groups for a nominal cost. It is wise to research these programs in the area where you live.

It is always better to start a fashion design business in a location not too far from a garment district. A major benefit is that you will have direct access to sewing contractors, fabric and trim suppliers. Some popular places that I am familiar with are, of course, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Atlanta and Dallas. Many smaller cities also have garment manufacturing friendly areas. It is a good idea to do your homework and research this in your city or town. Many states (such as California) require that designers opening a business pass a special test and pay a hefty registration fee. Contact your local authorities to find out if this applies in your area.

Lastly, I would like to add that I am convinced that if you truly believe that you can accomplish something, and don’t let anything get in your way, all the challenges that you will experience will turn into opportunities…. what along the way some termed as ”impossible” will become a reality.

About the Author

Yuliya Zeltser is the founding and lead designer of the plus-size clothing company Igigi.  She believes that words like “ample,” “opulent,” “curvaceous,” and “voluptuous” should be mainstays in the fashion dictionary. It is important to accentuate and celebrate the beauty and sensuality of the female figure rather than cover it up with piles of fabric. She is as passionate about creating unique, fashion-forward, stylish and great fitting clothes, as she is about changing the way our society defines feminine beauty.  Among other venues, her designs have been worn by contestants in the Miss Plus America pageant and on the red carpet by Hairspray star Nikki Blonsky.

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More Resources

Elegant Plus Fashion Job Board - find a job in the industry

Elegant Plus Designer Fashion Listings - who’s already in the field

Books on Plus-Size Style - understanding body shapes, silhouette, fit and proportion

Books on Fashion Design - learning the skills of fashion design

Books on Plus-Size Sewing and Knitting - resources, tips and tricks for great design

Books on Fashion Marketing - great design isn’t enough. How to reach your public

 

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Money Talk for Women

How to Write a Business Plan

by Monica Rasso for Elegant Plus Magazine

Your dream might be to start your own fashion design company or open your own clothing store, but you don’t know where to begin!  The first thing you need to do is sit down over a period of weeks, even months, and do a bit of careful planning.  Chances are you will need to find investors in your dream, but even if you have the capital to start a company with your own resources, it’s best to have a solid business plan.

A business plan is vital to the success of your business. It is your roadmap to success! You wouldn’t start a long road trip across the country without a map! Why would you start your business, your dream, your hope without a plan? Besides being a directional and motivational tool, a business plan is important for obtaining financing from banks, venture capitalists and other start up funds. 

So where do you start? In writing a business plan, there are four main questions to consider: what, how, where and why. 

WHAT

1. What is my product or service? To answer this question, describe in detail exactly what you will be offering your customer. Describe the product or service in as much detail as you can. How is your idea unique? What value can you provide your customer? Why is this product or service needed?

1. What compensation do I offer any employees I may have? When do I plan to hire employees? Having a plan for when and if you will need to bring in employees can help your in organizing your business. You may site examples of when you would like to begin hiring.

1. What sources of help are available to me? It is important to know that help is available in planning your business. The local/state government, local college business advisors, Small Business Administration, and women business owners associations are all examples of service administrations available to help you financially and emotionally.

HOW

1. How do I pick supply and service vendors? What help can these companies provide for your business? For example, if you are starting a clothing store, where will you get your merchandise? How much time does a vendor need in order to get their product/service to you? You may begin to price the supplies necessary for creation of your product or service so that you can begin a budget. 

1. How do I fill customer’s orders or requests?  Will you provide a basic service or can customers do special requests? Who can you rely on to meet these special requests? 

1. How will I advertise my services?  Will you use local or national advertising? How much will all of this cost? What is the most effective use of advertising for your product? How do companies similar to yours advertise? 

WHERE

1. Where will I buy or lease an office/store? How big of a space do you need? What technology do you need? How will you transport, package, and/or deliver your product or service? 

1. Where will I get start-up funding? Bank, personal capital/savings, borrow from family/friends, or venture capital? You may want to look into possibilities of development capital from the Small Business Administration or women-owned business loans/programs or grants. 

1. Where do I want my business to be in five ten, fifteen, twenty years? Will you have more than one location? How will your business grow to be more profitable? Who can help you make this happen? 

WHY

1. Why should I choose a sole proprietorship, partnership, limited liability company, or corporation? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each? This question will require the assistance of a tax advisor. 

1. Why should I go into business anyways? What is driving you to open this business? 

Now that you have a business plan, what are you going to do with it? This plan should be used as your roadmap to start your business but also as a tool to look back on as your business grows and changes. Keep in mind that your success relies on your passion, commitment, and determination to reach your goals. Set goals and follow through! Put your dream on paper and make it happen! 

More Resources

SBA - Starting Your Own Business On-line Women’s Business Center The Guide to Retail Business Planning Business Plan Pro Software

Fashion Business e-Commerce Retailing Publicity & Marketing

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