August 8, 2007

So You Want to Be a Plus-Size Fashion Designer

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So You Want to Be a Plus-Size Fashion Designer

by Yuliya Zeltser of Igigi for Elegant Plus Magazine

Many of you are very interested in the fashion design field; but don’t know how to get started. Recently, the managing editor of Elegant Plus, Thea Politis, approached me and asked me to share my experiences, as well as some insider tips for beginners. I thought this was a great idea, since approximately five years ago I was in the similar position of a novice, starting my own plus-size designer fashion company. Today, Igigi is a very successful company, with thousands of curvy fashionistas wearing our exclusive designs worldwide.

Plus-size clothing is the fastest growing sector of the women’s apparel industry in the United States today, so now is a great time to get into the business. But it is also an ultra-competitive industry, with many failures due to lack of proper preparation, lack of understanding of the full-figured market, and poor business skills.

What Does a Plus-Size Fashion Designer Do?

The main job of a plus-size fashion designer is to conceptualize and create clothing designs that will fit and flatter women’s full-figured bodies. Additionally, there are other duties that can be performed by a designer such as planning production, merchandising of the clothing collection, as well as helping to market your own creations.

To be successful in this field there are certain necessary basic skills. The first one is, of course, the skill of design. This means comprehension of basic fashion design techniques and principles, knowledge of apparel construction and patternmaking, understanding mass production, as well as the ability to deliver flat technical design drawings with specifications for production. A flexible, creative problem solving approach to design and the ability to come up with multiple possible solutions is also a must.

Originality is a necessary talent to have, as well. For example, a fashion designer must be able to create unique variations of popular trends, and adapt them to look flattering on a voluptuous figure. Other important skills are the ability to successfully communicate with the design team, and coordinate the design process. I also believe that an in depth knowledge of various women’s shapes and different figure specifics are also necessary to create flattering garments. Moreover, artistic talent is crucial in fashion design, as well as a strong sense of form, aesthetics, color balance and proportion, and an eye for detail.

Many of these skills have to be a natural part of the individual - the raw talent, if you will. However, I strongly believe that formal training and education play a key role in the success of a designer.

Education and Preparation

There are several ways to obtain a fashion design education. Many aspiring designers begin at top post secondary design schools like the Parsons School of Design in New York, or Academy of Art in San Francisco. If you’re serious about reaching the top in this field, it is a good idea to make an effort to attend such a school.

However, in my opinion, very effective fashion design training is also obtainable in a two-year vocational school. Usually students will receive an extensive preparation and design skills, as well as some exposure to the garment industry. Many of these programs are also available in community colleges.

After graduating, many people acquire as much experience in the real working environment as they can get. Many find internship positions with already established fashion designers or apparel manufacturing companies. Developing a comprehensive portfolio while in school will help get these internship opportunities.

Many graduates often begin as Design Room Assistants, an entry-level position that allows them to develop their skills and even possibly grow within the company. Others begin as Design Assistants, a much more responsible position that offers right-hand help to a lead Designer. Check the Elegant Plus Fashion Jobs board and other fashion industry job boards for opportunities in the plus-size designer field.

It certainly takes time, enormous amounts of patience, and dedication to succeed in this industry. However if you have the passion for design, tenacity, perseverance and willingness to constantly grow and evolve as both a professional and an individual, this could be a profession for you.

I think that every aspiring plus fashion designer should honestly ask her/himself a question: is she/he willing to work for several years for free, or minimal compensation?

If your answer is “yes”, than this is a job made for you. The good news is that a Plus-size industry is the fastest growing segment in the apparel industry, and the quantity of jobs related to fashion design for plus-sizes will grow tremendously in the next few years.

Financial Opportunities in Plus-Size Design

Now let’s talk about financial opportunities in the field.

According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics an average annual income for fashion designers in 2003 was $64,030 a year. Many earn a lot less. However, many top designers can earn up to $100,000 within the straight size industry. In my opinion, as the plus-size segment gets larger and more popular, so will the opportunity to become a top designer, receiving larger compensation.

Many designers, including myself, choose to work independently and start their own fashion labels. However, this choice also comes with a heavy price. A need to be ready to work 14 -18 hour days, with no compensation for as long as 3 years could be in-store for the young entrepreneurs…..as it was for me. However, success of the brand is one of the most rewarding pay offs.

My suggestion for the young fashion design entrepreneurs who want to start and run their own label is to enroll in some kind of the business training, in addition to your more creative coursework. This will help you to create a business plan, marketing plan and expose you to various resources for financing. Many of these educational programs are also available to women and minority groups for a nominal cost. It is wise to research these programs in the area where you live.

It is always better to start a fashion design business in a location not too far from a garment district. A major benefit is that you will have direct access to sewing contractors, fabric and trim suppliers. Some popular places that I am familiar with are, of course, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Atlanta and Dallas. Many smaller cities also have garment manufacturing friendly areas. It is a good idea to do your homework and research this in your city or town. Many states (such as California) require that designers opening a business pass a special test and pay a hefty registration fee. Contact your local authorities to find out if this applies in your area.

Lastly, I would like to add that I am convinced that if you truly believe that you can accomplish something, and don’t let anything get in your way, all the challenges that you will experience will turn into opportunities…. what along the way some termed as ”impossible” will become a reality.

About the Author

Yuliya Zeltser is the founding and lead designer of the plus-size clothing company Igigi. She believes that words like “ample,” “opulent,” “curvaceous,” and “voluptuous” should be mainstays in the fashion dictionary. It is important to accentuate and celebrate the beauty and sensuality of the female figure rather than cover it up with piles of fabric. She is as passionate about creating unique, fashion-forward, stylish and great fitting clothes, as she is about changing the way our society defines feminine beauty. Among other venues, her designs have been worn by contestants in the Miss Plus America pageant and on the red carpet by Hairspray star Nikki Blonsky.

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